Leopard Couture Bra, $55, Itty Bitty Bra

With thanks to Jane Alden Hodgdon, President and CEO of IBB Designs (the makers of Itty Bitty Bra). Jane kindly shared some insights with me about the AA-cup bra market and her role as the designer and developer of the Itty Bitty Bra collection: a fashionable, comfortable bra range aimed at small-busted women who are “Itty Bitty and proud!”. 

What triggered your personal decision to launch IBB Designs?

It began as a personal need. After years of searching, I realised there simply wasn’t a bra on the market that fit me — or the millions of other women in my size range. I eventually decided I had to design and develop Itty Bitty Bra to give people like me a brand they can call their very own.

Why are AA-cup women so ignored by most lingerie manufacturers?

It seems to me that most large manufacturers think it’s more cost effective to serve the mid-range sizes, perhaps wrongly assuming that these are the majority. I was recently told that even the larger department stores are moving away from ordering AA, A, and some B-cups. Consequently these lower ranges are considered niche markets and their potential is largely ignored.

The manufacturers who do supply small-cup bras don’t generally invest in developing the right designs for small-busted women. They equate “small-busted” with “petite” and AA-cup and A-cup styles are often poorly scaled down versions of B and C-cup styles with shortened straps.

How did you develop the Itty Bitty Bra?

The development process took over a year – it was a very challenging, exciting and creatively fulfilling journey. I started with the cup design, which required a considerable amount of time to produce accurately. Because I was unable to find a suitable company in Los Angeles, I then had the mould made by a cup manufacturer in Canada. With the help of a patternmaker in New York, I created the very first sample. And that brought me to a manufacturer who helped me develop the line into a finished product. Today, we produce all the pieces in factories in China. I went there myself a year ago to see first-hand that the garments are made precisely and efficiently.

What new styles are coming soon?

The existing range includes the original Signature Bra, the Bralette, the Strapless Bra, the Removable Pad Bra, the Couture Bra, the Boy Short, the Thong and the Camisole.

New styles will be added this summer: Removable padded bras in three new patterns — houndstooth, gold paisley, and a navy geometric design — and matching boyshorts. We are also launching a workout bra very soon that has removable padding and matching boyshorts. And we’re developing a bra with no underwire, light padding with convertible straps.

What unique qualities does a small-cup bra need to have?

A small-cup bra needs to be comfortable — with no gapping, no puckering, and no slipping. The cup needs to be specifically designed for “true” AA, A, and B-cup bodies. Also, in my opinion, the design should be made from soft and pretty fabrics that can be worn every day.

To find out more about Itty Bitty Bras visit their website or that of their UK supplier, Perfectly Petite Lingerie.

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Floral print padded balcony bra, £8, sizes AA-cup to E-cup; and bikini knickers, £4, from M&S Limited Collection

With thanks to Soozie Jenkinson, Head of Lingerie Design at Marks and Spencer, who took the time to answer my questions.

Marks and Spencer leads the way on the high street, offering more than other stores in the way of colourful, fashionable AA-cup lingerie.

But I wanted to know whether further expansion was likely (greedy aren’t I?) — maybe even offering the beautiful Ceriso collection in AA-cup sizes. Here’s what I found out…

Marks & Spencer’s Limited Collection now includes bras in AA-cup sizes. Why has M&S decided that the AA-cup niche is worth serving?

It’s important to offer a good selection to all our customers. That’s why M&S stocks bras for women from a size AA-J, which means that we cater for 99% of the female population in the UK.

Does M&S have plans to offer an even wider range of bras in AA-cup sizes?

There is now a wide range of AA-cup bras in our popular Limited Collection.  That said, we wouldn’t rule out the possibility of offering other ranges in smaller cup sizes in the future.  We constantly gather information from customer feedback sessions and continually review our womenswear and lingerie ranges to reflect demand.

Does every M&S store have a representative that has received training in bra fittings and lingerie selection?

There are 3,500 trained lingerie advisors in M&S stores in the UK. 8,000 women are measured in our stores every day. We place a great deal of value in the fact that trained staff are on hand to advise on the correct bra, shape and style for the individual.

What are the key lingerie trends for Spring/Summer 2010?

The M&S Spring/Summer lingerie collection has been inspired by the Underwear as Outerwear look, which emerged as a major catwalk trend for this season. Bright, bold patterns are also a big lingerie story for this Summer.

Talking of Underwear as Outerwear, do you have any lingerie styles that are too good to be under wraps?

Our long-line bras are going to be a must-have for this season as well as our embroidered worn to be seen basques which are just too special to keep hidden away. Both should be coming soon to our stores and site. Just team with a skirt and a beautiful blazer to create the perfect Summer look.

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