Leopard Couture Bra, $55, Itty Bitty Bra

With thanks to Jane Alden Hodgdon, President and CEO of IBB Designs (the makers of Itty Bitty Bra). Jane kindly shared some insights with me about the AA-cup bra market and her role as the designer and developer of the Itty Bitty Bra collection: a fashionable, comfortable bra range aimed at small-busted women who are “Itty Bitty and proud!”. 

What triggered your personal decision to launch IBB Designs?

It began as a personal need. After years of searching, I realised there simply wasn’t a bra on the market that fit me — or the millions of other women in my size range. I eventually decided I had to design and develop Itty Bitty Bra to give people like me a brand they can call their very own.

Why are AA-cup women so ignored by most lingerie manufacturers?

It seems to me that most large manufacturers think it’s more cost effective to serve the mid-range sizes, perhaps wrongly assuming that these are the majority. I was recently told that even the larger department stores are moving away from ordering AA, A, and some B-cups. Consequently these lower ranges are considered niche markets and their potential is largely ignored.

The manufacturers who do supply small-cup bras don’t generally invest in developing the right designs for small-busted women. They equate “small-busted” with “petite” and AA-cup and A-cup styles are often poorly scaled down versions of B and C-cup styles with shortened straps.

How did you develop the Itty Bitty Bra?

The development process took over a year – it was a very challenging, exciting and creatively fulfilling journey. I started with the cup design, which required a considerable amount of time to produce accurately. Because I was unable to find a suitable company in Los Angeles, I then had the mould made by a cup manufacturer in Canada. With the help of a patternmaker in New York, I created the very first sample. And that brought me to a manufacturer who helped me develop the line into a finished product. Today, we produce all the pieces in factories in China. I went there myself a year ago to see first-hand that the garments are made precisely and efficiently.

What new styles are coming soon?

The existing range includes the original Signature Bra, the Bralette, the Strapless Bra, the Removable Pad Bra, the Couture Bra, the Boy Short, the Thong and the Camisole.

New styles will be added this summer: Removable padded bras in three new patterns — houndstooth, gold paisley, and a navy geometric design — and matching boyshorts. We are also launching a workout bra very soon that has removable padding and matching boyshorts. And we’re developing a bra with no underwire, light padding with convertible straps.

What unique qualities does a small-cup bra need to have?

A small-cup bra needs to be comfortable — with no gapping, no puckering, and no slipping. The cup needs to be specifically designed for “true” AA, A, and B-cup bodies. Also, in my opinion, the design should be made from soft and pretty fabrics that can be worn every day.

To find out more about Itty Bitty Bras visit their website or that of their UK supplier, Perfectly Petite Lingerie.

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An SBBH reader asks, “I’m looking for pretty non-padded bra, something lacy and lovely. All AA bras seem to be heavily padded or filled with liquid. I don’t want my bust to look big.”

Say what? You’re happy being small-busted? This seems incomprehensible to a lot of folks — among them, some lingerie manufacturers. But I totally see where this reader is coming from. Not all small-busted women aspire to be more voluptuous. Some are happy with their bodies as they are and feel no urge to “hoist em up” or boost their cup size with padding or gel.

Which leaves lingerie with only one role: to make its wearer feel like a squillion dollars. So, off I trotted to put my reader’s question to some of my favourite champions of small-cup lingerie. And here are their recommendations for unpadded, gel-free, beautiful bras-for-bras-sakes:

Marks and Spencer: “Our Limited Collection bras are very pretty. They are lightly padded, but this is more about giving the bra some shape, rather than giving the wearer a bigger bust.”

Perfectly Petite Lingerie: “Bralettes are great for the petite bust — a cross between a bra and a bikini top. They’re unwired and made from stretch fabric, so they are very comfortable. I recommend the very pretty lace-trimmed Itty Bitty Bralette.”

Palm Print bra, Limited Collection, M&S

Itty Bitty Bralette, Perfectly Petite Lingerie

A Little Something Fit: “Our favorite non-padded bra is Timpa’s Duet Lace underwire demi bra. It’s a beautiful style with cups made from sheer mesh with a scalloped lace trim. The A-cup fits most AA-cups.”

Eve’s Apples: “I recommend the Eberjey India bralette: it’s lacy, elegant, comfortable and versatile. It looks good on all body and breast shapes, including shallow breasts and petites.”

Timpa Duet Lace demi bra, A Little Something Fit

Eberjey India Bralette, Eve's Apples

Lailides: “I recommend our Serenade bra, which is non-padded, made from really beautiful lace and just lovely. It’s very comfortable and gives the bust a totally natural shape, which is not pushed-up or enhanced.”

Dainty Lady: “We make a great range of natural looking, lightly padded bras, with no gel. Our Fleur bra, Passion Flower bra and Magnolia bra all fit the bill. All the bras we make (by hand) have a soft, very comfortable 5mm foam lining, with small pockets and soft pads.”

Serenade bra, Lailides

Fleur bra, Dainty Lady

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